Within the halls of power, fashion can often be dismissed as an afterthought. Yet, for women in politics, what they choose to wear can carry profound implications for how they are perceived by their colleagues, constituents and the media. Lori Poloni-Staudinger, dean of the University of Arizona College of Social and Behavioral Sciences and a professor in the School of Government and Public Policy, examines the intersection of politics and social movements. Recently, she has turned her attention to a less explored aspect of politics: fashion.

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Poloni-Staudinger has authored six books and more than 30 academic papers on social movements and political participation and is now one of the editors of "The Palgrave Handbook of Fashion and Politics." The book explores how fashion intersects with political expression around the world. The subject may seem inconsequential to some, but as Poloni-Staudinger explains, fashion plays a critical role in how political figures – especially women – are viewed.

At the heart of the issue, Poloni-Staudinger argues, is what she calls the "masculine ethos" that dominates American political life.

"Politicians are expected to be tough, decisive and brave – all words we typically associate with men," she said. "If you were to ask somebody to choose between a picture of a man or a woman after hearing those words, they would trend towards the picture of the man. That is what we mean by a masculine ethos: It is the context in which American politics operates."

This ethos not only affects how politicians are perceived but also influences how they dress. For men, the dark suit and tie serve as a uniform that symbolizes competence and authority, Poloni-Staudinger said. For women, the sartorial landscape is far more complicated. When women enter politics, they face a "double bind," Poloni-Staudinger said: They must appear likable and as acting feminine while also being assertive enough to be taken seriously as a politician.

Balancing femininity and perceived power, without being seen as aggressive, can be a challenging task in the highest levels of American politics, but it's also a struggle for women in leadership roles in various other industries, Poloni-Staudinger said.

"You do not often see women politicians adopt dresses or professional skirts like you do with first ladies and second spouses, because that can reinforce gender stereotypes," Poloni-Staudinger said. "Women at higher levels of power often adopt the pantsuit, albeit a more feminized version compared to the traditional male pantsuit. When Angela Merkel wore a dress with a plunging neckline and a necklace, it was widely remarked upon, but it was just an evening gown like any other. Commenting on a woman's dress like that makes it political."

The president's new suit

On the campaign trail, Poloni-Staudinger said that Vice President Kamala Harris and her presidential campaign need to not only establish a political identity separate from President Joe Biden, but also contend with women being perceived as "too weak" to be the country's commander-in-chief.

To move past traditional gender roles and appear more in line with the socially accepted idea of a president, Poloni-Staudinger said that Harris – like many other women in politics – adopted the pantsuit with feminized accoutrements like a ruffled shirt, pearl earrings or a gold necklace.

"When we think about a prosecutor, that is their traditional uniform, and I think Harris is painting herself as a prosecutor who is presidential," Poloni-Staudinger said. "And you don't often see her talk about what designer she is wearing in a way that you may see a first lady. She just wears well-tailored suits."

While women in politics are often more strategic in their fashion choices, Poloni-Staudinger said that former President Donald Trump's consistent choice of a dark suit and red tie is designed to project strength and traditionalism. 

"He wants to be the prototype of what we expect a president to look like, and he always presents that way," she said. "I don't think I have ever seen him wear a yellow tie, or blue with flecks of purple – ways that other politicians may deviate. He is always in uniform, and it's the most presidential uniform we can imagine."

Recognizing the influence of fashion on political perception invites a reevaluation of how political leaders are assessed, Poloni-Staudinger said. She said it's essential for constituents to advocate for a political landscape that prioritizes substance over style, allowing women – and all politicians – to express their identities without fear of restriction or judgement.